Don't press too hard; the glass cutter must crush a very small
groove in the glass surface. If too much pressure is used, several
small fractures will run out in directions other than the score
line.
The proper amount of pressure will make a small groove with one fracture extending down and the break will follow the score. In scoring the glass, DRAW YOUR CUTTER ACROSS ONLY ONCE OR YOU MAY DAMAGE THE CUTTER. If tiny slivers of glass fly from the score line you are pressing too hard.
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The traditional way to hold the glass cutter is between the first and second finger. The thumb supports the cutter on the underside allowing a free wrist motion as the cut is made. The pressure coming from the shoulder not from the wrist or fingers as you draw the cutter toward you. This is the best way to cut long strips.
Down pressure from shoulder
not fingers
 Bottom
View Thumb Draw
toward you supports cutter [Fig. 2] [Fig.3] |
 Sticky tape under ruler to hold in place while cutting straight lines |
The glass pieces should be grasped with the tips of your fingers inside, away from the edges. NEVER GRIP WITH THE PALM OF YOUR HAND.
Always apply pressure away from the score line; press the knuckles firmly together, roll both fists out and down applying pressure on the bottom two knuckles, bending and pulling apart at the same time. Use breaking pliers the same way when breaking apart smaller glass pieces. They are just an extension of your fingers and hands.
| Hold here - piece may break completely apart | |||
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| Light firm taps under edge | Fracture Widens to edge [Fig. 4] | Press firmly together, bend and pull apart at same time | |
To cut stock sheets down to workable size try to keep the same amount of glass (mass) on each side of the score lihen the score line will run and break much truer. Keep score near the center of each piece until the desired workable size is reached.
Fig. 5 and Fig. 6 show another very popular way of holding the glass cutter. This example is used successfully by individuals who have trouble getting enough pressure with one hand. In both examples the cutter is pushed and the score line is made on the inside of the mark on theglass. Use the way that is comfortable for you.
 [Fig. 5]Pressure from the shoulder; push cutter; steady with thumb |
[Fig. 6]Push the cutter along the inside of the mark on the glass |
| 1. Place the paper pattern on the smooth side of selected glass and mark around with a fine marking pen; hold pattern in place with sticky tape. (optional) |
 Mark Pattern on Glass |
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| 2. Push the glass cutter. Score on the inside of the pattern mark on the glass. |  |
| 3. Break off with narrow breaking pliers and grind to the score line. Pattern marks should be on the scrap. |
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4. Test each cut and ground piece with the pattern to be sure they are the same size or smaller than the pattern. Rinse in water and towel dry. |
 Test for Fit |
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| In Fig. 6 the inside cut is the most difficult. Each cut is numbered in sequence. A straight cut #1 is made across the inside cut. This is broken away leaving glass on both sides of the inside cut. Inside cut #2 is then scored and broken out, using the corner of your breaking pliers. Work any protruding glass down with grossing pliers, a hand stone, or a grinding machine. | 
Fig. 6 |
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| In Fig. 7 each cut is numbered in sequence. Scores 3, 4 and 5 marked with an 'X' show breaking plier grip areas. Grip the glass away from narrow pointed ends, so the break will be toward the narrowest part. |
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| In Fig. 8 the inside cut on this piece is too deep to break out in one piece. Two score lines are made, then use the corner of the pliers to break out in sequence #2 and #3. |
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| In Fig. 9 leave extra glass on each side. Mark a series of score lines #1-#10. Carefully nibble and break away glass with the corner of the pliers. Your fingers holding the glass must grip firmly and be close to the nose of the pliers. |
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Supplies needed: scissors, glass marking pen or pencil, sticky
tape, cellophane tape, glass cutter, ruler.
This method of cutting out grid work differs from using a jig.
All the scoring is done freehand. By freehand, we mean a line
is drawn on the glass. The glass is scored on the inside, or in
the center of the line without using a straight edge.
Always push the cutter as you score freehand so you can see where
you are scoring.
Cut out the grid work paper patterns; arrange them over their
space on the form. Hold them on the form with sticky tape or two
pins placed near the center of each pattern piece. Check to make
sure there is at least the width of a pin between the patterns.
Decide on glass color grain direction horizontal, vertical,
slanted, etc. Vertical color grain flow is very attractive. The
color grain will extend from one piece to another.
Fig 10 Arrange the pattern pieces with no space between. Fasten
together with cellophane tape.
Fig.11 Notch out between the pieces so a line can be drawn on
the glass with a straight edge. Score in the center of this line
between the parts.
Check for correct fit before proceeding with the balance of the
parts.
Fig12 illustrates how other patterns can be grouped together
and then cut apart. 
[Fig. 12]
Fig 13 When cutting identical geometric pieces of gridwork first cut a strip of glass that is equal to the height of each piece. Mark each pattern on the glass while turning end over end until you have enough to go around the form. Score and break apart.
To make strips for gridwork and borders. Measure and lay out the strips in pairs of 2, 4, 8, 16, etc. This keeps the same amount of glass (mass) on each side of the score line. Score using a ruler or jig. Run the score to break them apart starting in the center each time [Fig 14]. Use running pliers for strips that are too narrow to run the score line with your fingers.
