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| Pull pins partway out to remove parts, foil wrap and repin |
Study illustration as you remove the pieces for foiling do not pull the pins all the way out; pull them just far enough out so each glass piece can be tipped up, removed, foiled and repinned. The copper foil is wrapped around the edges of each piece of cut glass, leaving about 1/32" overlap for the solder to stick to. A neat even foil wrap will give a base for a neat even soldered joint.
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| Pull pins partway out to remove parts, foil wrap and repin |
The copper foil method of making stained glass lamps was first
introduced around 1890. Since solder will not adhere to glass,
copper foil is wrapped around the edges leaving only enough exposed
surface for the solder to stick to. A neat, even, foil wrap will
give a base for a neat, even, soldered joint. The shade is held
together by a framework of solder, not the copper foil.
Copper foil is available in rolls in several widths. It comes
coated with a special pressure sensitive glue which adheres to
the glass. There is no need to use copper foil wider than necessary.
Using the right width will save on solder and allow you to make
neater seams thus reducing the overall weight of the finished
lamp. Remove the backing paper from the foil as you wrap glass
pieces.
Most stained glass is approximately 1/8" thick. If you use 3/16" wide copper foil there will be about 1/32" extending around the edge on each side. For glass up to 5/32" thick, 7/32" width tape can be used.
 7/32" tape with 5/32" art glass |
Near the aperture opening only a few parts support the lamp. For extra support wrap parts near the aperture with approximately 1/32" wider overlap. For small lamp parts wrap with a narrower (approx. 1/64") overlap. If you have foil that is too wide, it can be easily trimmed with scissors. Leave the paper backing in place while trimming. The untrimmed edge is placed on the outside for nice even seams
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| Copper Foil is easily trimmed. Leave backing on. |
Have approximately 1/32" overlap on both sides of glass | |
To wrap, center the glass piece on the copper foil, press firmly to lock the end to the glass. Keep the glass centered and continue to wrap around the edge of the glass, overlap the ends about 1/4". To prevent uneven overlaps cut the foil at sharp corners without an overlap.
In many of the antique lamps, smooth round lass jewels were used to represent clusters of grapes and accent points. Ruby red was the color used most often in the old lamps. For dragonfly lamps multicolor oval and round jewels are used. When installing jewels, rough the edge with a grindstone so the copper foil will adhere better. Only a very narrow strip of foil is needed. Copper foil is easily trimmed with scissors. The jewels will show up better if they are positioned slightly above the surface of the form. Place pins under them so the rounded part of the jewels is held above the flat stained glass.
Examine the edge of the rippled glass. Use copper foil that is at least 1/16" wider than the widest point. As you wrap, look at the flat back side and leave about 1/32" overlap. Do not crimp the rippled side until you have contour trimmed the foil with small pointed scissors. Trim leaving about 1/32" above the edge on the rippled side.
Copper foil will oxidize and turn reddish with age. This is not a problem, flux will clean the foil for soldering. When soldering, you should constantly keep cleaning the excess flux off with a damp cloth or the foil will oxidize and need to be replaced after a short time. It is best to use a small brush and apply flux sparinly when tack soldering.
Use these foils with lightly colored cathedral and clear glass to hide the copper foil color and to create special effects.
