Antique Style Lamp Patterns, Lamp Forms, Stained glass cutting and Lamp construction information
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Brass Filigree

    Tiffany studios used similar filigree on their original lamps. This filigree is etched brass approximately 3 mil. thick. Easy to tin, antique, and install.

Installing Filigree
    We have found it best to solder the filigree in place after the lamp is completed, cleaned and antiqued. Be sure and leave a flat seam around the outside edge of each glass piece that is to be covered so the filigree will lay flat next to the glass.
    Prepare the filigree for antiquing, by tinning it first. Filigree should not be cut apart until after it has been tinned and antiqued. Lay filigree on a flat wooden surface, clean by rubbing with steel wool (brass conducts heat; use a heavy glove to hold it in place) brush on a generous amount of flux, use a clean freshly tinned soldering iron set on high heat.  Rub the surface with the flat part of the iron tip, use a very small amount of solder, just enough to turn the surface a bright aluminum color, do both sides, rinse and pat dry.  Next antique the inside and outside of each filigree part, try not to get the antiquing solution on the edge, rinse and dry, cut apart, and solder it on top of the foil overlap around each glass part, build up a nice rounded seam and carefully antique the edge trying not to stain the glass under the filigree.  Use household shears to cut the filigree apart.

Dragonfly Wing Filigree
    The wings of the original lamps made by the Tiffany Studios were constructed of flat streaky opal art glass.  The filigree was soldered on the outside giving a natural three dimensional look to the dragonflies.  Solder is built up to fill the gaps where the wings are above the form.  Use drops of solder to build up layers of drops (like a swallow makes a mud nest) then smooth. On some lamps the wings appear to lay above each other where they overlap.  Use the paper pattern and notch the tips of the wing filigree to match the glass wing.  DO NOT CUT the small round part on the other end, this represents the wing muscle attached at the top of the Dragonfly body. Overlap the round part near the center of the dragonfly body.


Hop and Grain Filigree
    
Hop and Grain Filigree              P20-14 Pub Lamp W
Filigree gives more natural look to hop pods and wheat heads

Bird Filigrees
         
Loon Filigree                                RC22-18 Loon 22" W
Filigree over white art glass imitates feathers

    
Rooster Filigree                         FD12  Worden Rooster W
Filigree creates bill, eye and comb

    
Hummingbird Filigree                 CF18-24 Hummingbird W
Filigree creates eyes, beaks, and feet

Fish Filigree
    
Bass Filigree                          C20-19 Bass Lamp W

     
Muskie Filigree                          RC22-14 Muskie
Tail, Fin and Gill filgree gives a more natural 3-dimensional look to fins

Flower Filigree
                   
Poppy Filigree        SC20-5 Poppy T shown with filigree on outside of lamps

    
Poppy Filigree                           C16-5 Poppy Cone T

    
Impatiens Filigree               RC22-17 Impatiens Border W
Filigree provides separation and definition to the flower petals


How to Tin and Use Cast Brass Parts

Cast Brass Tree Limb Filigree
    These intertwined brass branches are similar to the castings on the original Tiffany lamps. The brass branches replace hundreds of glass parts. The sectional castings add much to the appearance and value of the lamp. The openings between the branches were meant to be left open to create more realism and also to vent the heat from the light bulbs. Branches have a realistic sculptured tree-like surface which is ready to clean, tin and install.  A 1.25” diameter brass washer comes with each set. It is soldered solidly in the aperture opening.

BF5 Large Tree Limb Filigree
for W18-1 Wisteria T, W18-2 Grape Vine T, W18-5 Pendant Cherry Tree T, W18-10 Trumpet Vine T


BF3 Small Tree Limb Filigree
for W10-1 Miniature Wisteria T, W10-2 Miniature Cherry Tree T, G13-1 Begonia T

Cast Brass Spider Legs

    Cast spider legs similar to those used on the original antique Tiffany Spider & Web lamps, fit our 13” diameter No. G13-3 Spider & Web lamp. They come polished and are installed on the outside after the lamp is completed. The spider lamp has a 3” diameter aperture opening. A cast brass heat cap or a spun brass vase cap represents the spider body.
    Cleaning:  Scrub the surface clean of any remaining polishing compounds, oxide, or protective oils with a degreasing detergent, hot water, and fine steel wool. Rinse and dry.
    Tinning:  Use generous amounts of the same flux you are using for copper foiling before heating. The castings must be heated above the melting point of solder so the solder will adhere and flow easily. Use a large 150 watt soldering iron, a small propane torch, or your own kitchen oven to get the filigree hot enough.
    A second smaller 60 -100 watt soldering iron with a small tip will help to spread the solder into all the small openings. Wash, rinse, and dry.
    Installing:  Start with  the filigree first. Treat the filigree just like another piece of glass. To fit place the filigree in position on the SectionalForm™ with pins. It may be necessary to file or grind the edges of the branches to get a proper fit.   
    If sideboards are not used: to assure that there are no overhanging parts, hold a straight edge securely against both the sides of the sectional form and move it along the form. The edge of a small 6” metal ruler or any straight edge tool works well.
    The first row of foiled wrapped glass pieces may need to be modified  in order to fit to the filigrees bottom edge.
    Tinning allows the brass castings to be attached by tack soldering to the foiled glass parts without damaging the form.